Aug. 18, 2025
Construction & Real Estate
The UK has some of Europe's most poorly insulated housing, responsible for a staggering 27% of national CO2 emissions. With the ambitious Net Zero by goal in place, home insulation materials have never been so important.
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Insulation boards, lauded for their high heat retention, durability, and resistance to weathering, are a booming market for all the right reasons. From synthetic PIR to all-natural cork, there are plenty of effective options for all budgets, purposes, and applications.
This complete guide by GreenMatch UK will provide you with all the information you need to make the right insulation decisions for your home.
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Get your best dealQuickly compare FREE quotesSimply put, insulation boards are dense and rigid panels or sheets made from various thermally efficient materials. Depending on the chosen materials and their density, insulation boards can provide a varying degree of thermal effectiveness.
Insulating boards are most commonly made of synthetic polymers such as polyisocyanurate (PIR) or polystyrene (EPS), but there are also plenty of eco-friendly and sustainable options.
Luckily, there is a near-endless range of various insulation panels on the market, tailored to all kinds of budgets and applications. Here’s a summary of some of the most popular insulation boards available on the market today:
In addition to the importance of your chosen insulated board, it’s just as vital to work with a professional installer. While DIY insulation may seem financially tempting, shabby work is a fine line between saving a quick buck and creating a financial nightmare full of repairs. GreenMatch UK can help you here.
Instead of spending endless hours surfing the web and scheduling calls, spend just 30 seconds filling out our online form and receive up to 3 free home-tailored quotes from our network of installers. No costs, no obligations. Simply click below to begin!
Get your best dealQuickly compare FREE quotesThe best board insulation would likely be phenolic boards, due to their superior heat retention capacity, exhibiting a remarkable u-value of 0.018 W/m²K. This is closely followed by PIR boards, which are also very thermally effective, demonstrating a u-value range of around 0.022 - 0.028 W/m²K.
However, the best board is a subjective matter that hinges on which factors matter the most to you, such as cost or sustainability. To make things easier, here’s a look at some other best boards on the market:
For the most educated decision, it’s best to consult with an industry professional who can assess your property and help tailor the best course of action for your needs.
The greatest aspect of insulation boards is their durability, making them ideal insulation solutions for a range of jobs around the house. Here’s a breakdown of some key home projects for insulation boards that are well-suited for:
To make the most optimal decisions for your home, consider hiring a professional insulation installer to assess your property and construct the best course of action for your needs. With GreenMatch UK, all you need is 30 seconds.
Fill out our quick and easy online form to receive up to 3 free home-tailored quotes from our nationwide network of pre-vetted installers. No costs, no obligations. Simply click below to begin, and let the bargains come to you!
Get your best dealQuickly compare FREE quotesThe cost of insulation boards can vary depending on your chosen material, its thickness, thermal efficiency and much more. The average cost range for insulation boards is about £3 - £25 per m2, but this can vary significantly.
Here’s a breakdown of costs per m2 based on your chosen insulation board type:
Of all the insulation materials covered, multi-foil insulation boards are by far the cheapest home insulation option, however, it's important to note that multi-foil alone will not provide adequate thermal heat retention, and will need to be coupled with other insulation methods.
Several factors can impact your overall costs that are worth keeping in mind:
To make the best decision for your home, we recommend working with a professional installer. That way, a home assessment can be carried out to determine the best course of action tailored to your home.
In general, most rigid panel insulation will require to be around 100mm - 120mm thick to meet UK Building Regulations for heat retention. This is significantly less than what is expected for blanket-style insulation such as mineral wool, which is at about 270mm for optimal insulation.
Ultimately, each property and its conditions will influence what thickness is needed. For this reason, it’s recommended to work with a professional insulation installer who can assess your property and tailor the best course of action to meet your needs.
To make the most educated decision, it’s important to weigh out the pros and cons of your chosen insulation material. To make things easier, we’ve summarised the key advantages and disadvantages associated with rigid insulation panels for you:
ProsUltimately, each home situation will be different, which is why working with a professional installer gives you the best chance for a perfect fit. Unfortunately, finding the right installer at the right price can see homeowners spend endless hours surfing the web for quotes. That was until GreenMatch UK came along.
Instead of spending all your valuable time on research and vetting, spend just 30 seconds filling out our online form and receive up to 3 home-tailored quotes, completely free of charges and obligations. Click below to skip the line and get the best bargains!
Get your best dealQuickly compare FREE quotesThe best insulation board depends on your budget and needs. Overall, the most thermally effective insulation boards are phenolic and PIR boards. Both boast a superior heat retention capacity but are more expensive than most other insulation board options.
The main disadvantages of insulation boards are their higher costs, less versatility, and potential unsustainability with some synthetic polymer-based insulation boards. To avoid these issues, it’s recommended to opt for eco-friendly-based boards such as cork or wood fibre.
In general, most insulation boards need around 100mm – 120mm of thickness to achieve the required thermal efficiency outlined by the UK Building Regulations.
Some insulation boards have a closed-cell structure, such as XPS polystyrene or polyurethane insulation boards. This means they do not allow the passage of vapour, making them impervious to moisture and stopping dampness. Open-cell structured boards may allow vapour to pass, but also create room for the moisture to evaporate, making them damp effective.
The maximum thermal performance or R-value of insulation is very dependent on proper installation. Homeowners can install some types of insulation -- notably blankets, boards, and materials that can be poured in place. (Liquid foam insulation materials can be poured, but they require professional installation). Other types require professional installation.
When hiring a professional certified installer:
To evaluate blanket installation, you can measure batt thickness and check for gaps between batts as well as between batts and framing. In addition, inspect insulation for a tight fit around building components that penetrate the insulation, such as electrical boxes. To evaluate sprayed or blown-in types of insulation, measure the depth of the insulation and check for gaps in coverage.
If you choose to install the insulation yourself, follow the manufacturer’s instructions and safety precautions carefully and check local building and fire codes. Do-it-yourself instructions are available from the fiberglass and mineral wool trade group. The cellulose trade group recommends hiring a professional, but if there isn’t a qualified installer in your area or you feel comfortable taking on the job, you may be able to find guidance from manufacturers.
The table below provides an overview of most available insulation materials, how they are installed, where they're typically installed, and their advantages.
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Blanket insulation -- the most common and widely available type of insulation -- comes in the form of batts or rolls. It consists of flexible fibers, most commonly fiberglass. You also can find batts and rolls made from mineral (rock and slag) wool, plastic fibers, and natural fibers, such as cotton and sheep's wool. Learn more about these insulation materials.
Batts and rolls are available in widths suited to standard spacing of wall studs, attic trusses or rafters, and floor joists: 2 inch x 4 inch walls can hold R-13 or R-15 batts; 2 inch x 6 inch walls can use R-19 or R-21 products. Continuous rolls can be hand-cut and trimmed to fit. They are available with or without facings. Manufacturers often attach a facing (such as kraft paper, foil-kraft paper, or vinyl) to act as a vapor barrier and/or air barrier. Batts with a special flame-resistant facing are available in various widths for basement walls and other places where the insulation will be left exposed. A facing also helps facilitate handling and fastening during installation.
Work with your manufacturer and/or local building supplier to determine actual thickness, R-value, and cost of fiberglass blankets and batts.
Concrete blocks are used to build home foundations and walls, and there are several ways to insulate them. If the cores aren’t filled with steel and concrete for structural reasons, they can be filled with insulation, which raises the average wall R-value. Field studies and computer simulations have shown, however, that core filling of any type offers little fuel savings, because heat is readily conducted through the solid parts of the walls.
It is more effective to install insulation over the surface of the blocks either on the exterior or interior of the foundation walls. Placing insulation on the exterior has the added advantage of containing the thermal mass of the blocks within the conditioned space, which can moderate indoor temperatures.
Some manufacturers incorporate polystyrene beads into concrete blocks, while others make concrete blocks that accommodate rigid foam inserts.
In the United States, two varieties of solid, precast autoclaved concrete masonry units are now available: autoclaved aerated concrete (AAC) and autoclaved cellular concrete (ACC). This material contains about 80% air by volume and has been commonly used in Europe since the late s. Autoclaved concrete can have up to ten times the insulating value of conventional concrete. The blocks are large, light, and easily sawed, nailed, and shaped with ordinary tools. The material absorbs water readily, so it requires protection from moisture. Precast ACC uses fly ash instead of high-silica sand, which distinguishes it from AAC. Fly ash is a waste ash produced from burning coal in electric power plants.
Hollow-core units made with a mix of concrete and wood chips are also available. They are installed by stacking the units without using mortar (dry-stacking) and filling the cores with concrete and structural steel. One potential problem with this type of unit is that the wood is subject to the effects of moisture and insects.
Concrete block walls are typically insulated or built with insulating concrete blocks during new home construction or major renovations. Block walls in existing homes can be insulated from the inside. Go to insulation materials for more information about the products commonly used to insulate concrete block.
Insulating concrete forms (ICFs) are basically forms for poured concrete walls, which remain as part of the wall assembly. This system creates walls with a high thermal resistance, typically about R-20. Even though ICF homes are constructed using concrete, they look like traditional stick-built homes.
ICF systems consist of interconnected foam boards or interlocking, hollow-core foam insulation blocks. Foam boards are fastened together using plastic ties. Along with the foam boards, steel rods (rebar) can be added for reinforcement before the concrete is poured. When using foam blocks, steel rods are often used inside the hollow cores to strengthen the walls.
The foam webbing around the concrete-filled cores of blocks can provide easy access for insects and groundwater. To help prevent these problems, some manufacturers make insecticide-treated foam blocks and promote methods for waterproofing them. Installing an ICF system requires an experienced contractor.
Loose-fill insulation consists of small particles of fiber, foam, or other materials. These small particles form an insulation material that can conform to any space without disturbing structures or finishes. This ability to conform makes loose-fill insulation well suited for retrofits and locations where it would be difficult to install other types of insulation.
The most common types of materials used for loose-fill insulation include cellulose, fiberglass, and mineral (rock or slag) wool. All of these materials are produced using recycled waste materials. Cellulose is primarily made from recycled newsprint. Most fiberglass products contain 40% to 60% recycled glass. Mineral wool is usually produced from 75% post-industrial recycled content.
Some less common loose-fill insulation materials include polystyrene beads and perlite. Loose-fill insulation can be installed in either enclosed cavities such as walls, or unenclosed spaces such as attics. Cellulose, fiberglass, and rock wool are typically blown in by experienced installers skilled at achieving the correct density and R-values. Polystyrene beads, vermiculite, and perlite are typically poured.
The Federal Trade Commission has issued the “Trade Regulation Rule Concerning the Labeling and Advertising of Home Insulation” (16 CFR Part 460). The Commission issued the R-value Rule to prohibit, on an industry-wide basis, specific unfair or deceptive acts or practices. The Rule requires that manufacturers and others who sell home insulation determine and disclose each products’ R-value and related information (e.g., thickness, coverage area per package) on package labels and manufacturers’ fact sheets. R-value ratings vary among different types and forms of home insulations and among products of the same type and form.
For loose-fill insulation, each manufacturer must determine the R-value of its product at settled density and create coverage charts showing the minimum settled thickness, minimum weight per square foot, and coverage area per bag for various total R-values.
This is because as the installed thickness of loose-fill insulation increases, its settled density also increases due to compression of the insulation under its own weight. Thus, the R-value of loose-fill insulation does not change proportionately with thickness. The manufacturers’ coverage charts specify the bags of insulation needed per square foot of coverage area; the maximum coverage area for one bag of insulation; the minimum weight per square foot of the installed insulation; and the initial and settled thickness of the installed insulation needed to achieve a particular R-value.
Unlike most common insulation systems, which resist conductive and convective heat flow, radiant barriers and reflective insulation work by reflecting radiant heat. Radiant barriers are installed in homes -- usually in attics -- primarily to reduce summer heat gain, which helps lower cooling costs. Reflective insulation incorporates reflective surfaces -- typically aluminum foils -- into insulation systems that can include a variety of backings, such as kraft paper, plastic film, polyethylene bubbles, or cardboard, as well as thermal insulation materials.
Radiant heat travels in a straight line away from any surface and heats anything solid that absorbs its energy. When the sun heats a roof, it's primarily the sun's radiant energy that makes the roof hot. A large portion of this heat travels by conduction through the roofing materials to the attic side of the roof. The hot roof material then radiates its gained heat energy onto the cooler attic surfaces, including the air ducts and the attic floor. A radiant barrier reduces the radiant heat transfer from the underside of the roof to the other surfaces in the attic. To be effective, it must face a large air space.
Radiant barriers are more effective in hot climates, especially when cooling air ducts are located in the attic. Some studies show that radiant barriers can lower cooling costs 5% to 10% when used in a warm, sunny climate. The reduced heat gain may even allow for a smaller air conditioning system. In cool climates, however, it's usually more cost-effective to install more thermal insulation.
Rigid fiber or fibrous board insulation consists of either fiberglass or mineral wool material and is primarily used for insulating air ducts in homes. It is also used when there's a need for insulation that can withstand high temperatures. These products come in a range of thicknesses from 1 inch to 2.5 inches.
Installation in air ducts is usually done by HVAC contractors, who fabricate the insulation at their shops or at job sites. On exterior duct surfaces, they can install the insulation by impaling it on weld pins and securing with speed clips or washers. They can also use special weld pins with integral-cupped head washers. Unfaced boards can then be finished with reinforced insulating cement, canvas, or weatherproof mastic. Faced boards can be installed in the same way, and the joints between boards sealed with pressure-sensitive tape or glass fabric and mastic.
Today, most foam materials use foaming agents that don't use chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) or hydrochlorofluorocarbons (HCFCs), which are harmful to the earth's ozone layer.
There are two types of foam-in-place insulation: closed-cell and open-cell. Both are typically made with polyurethane. With closed-cell foam, the high-density cells are closed and filled with a gas that helps the foam expand to fill the spaces around it. Open-cell foam cells are not as dense and are filled with air, which gives the insulation a spongy texture.
The type of insulation you should choose depends on how you will use it and on your budget. While closed-cell foam has a greater R-value and provides stronger resistance against moisture and air leakage, the material is also much denser and is more expensive. Open-cell foam is lighter and less expensive but should not be used below ground level where it could absorb water. Consult a professional insulation installer to decide what type of insulation is best for you.
Other available foam insulation materials include:
Some less common types include Icynene foam and Tripolymer foam. Icynene foam can be either sprayed or injected, which makes it the most versatile. It also has good resistance to both air and water intrusion. Tripolymer foam—a water-soluble foam—is injected into wall cavities. It has excellent resistance to fire and air intrusion.
Liquid foam insulation -- combined with a foaming agent -- can be applied using small spray containers or in larger quantities as a pressure-sprayed (foamed-in-place) product. Both types expand and harden as the mixture cures. They also conform to the shape of the cavity, filling and sealing it thoroughly.
Slow-curing liquid foams are also available. These foams are designed to flow over obstructions before expanding and curing, and they are often used for empty wall cavities in existing buildings. There are also liquid foam materials that can be poured from a container.
Installation of most types of liquid foam insulation requires special equipment and certification and should only be done by experienced installers. Following installation, an approved thermal barrier equal in fire resistance to half-inch gypsum board must cover all foam materials. Also, some building codes don't recognize sprayed foam insulation as a vapor barrier, so installation might require an additional vapor retarder.
SIPs are made in a factory and shipped to job sites. Builders then connect them together to construct a house. For an experienced builder, a SIPs home goes up much more quickly than other homes, which saves time and money without compromising quality. These savings can help offset the usually higher cost of SIPs.
Many SIP manufacturers also offer "panelized housing kits." The builder need only assemble the pre-cut pieces, and additional openings for doors and windows can be cut with standard tools at the construction site.
When installed according to manufacturers' recommendations, SIPs meet all building codes and pass the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) standards of safety.
Fire safety is a concern, but when the interior of the SIP is covered with a fire-rated material, such as gypsum board, it protects the facing and foam long enough to give building occupants a chance to escape.
As in any house, insects and rodents can be a problem. In a few cases, insects and rodents have tunneled throughout the SIPs, and some manufacturers have issued guidelines for preventing these problems, including:
Boric acid-treated insulation panels are also available. These panels deter insects, but are relatively harmless to humans and pets.
Because it can be very airtight, a well-built SIP structure may require controlled fresh-air ventilation for safety, health, and performance, and to meet many building codes. A well-designed, installed, and properly operated mechanical ventilation system can also help prevent indoor moisture problems, which is important for achieving the energy-saving benefits of a SIP structure.
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