Key Questions to Ask When Ordering 90 Degree Angle Plate

Maybe to clarify a little here: I would cut the surfaces with an end mill using 1/4 inch mild steel plate
for material. I don't have a sine bar but maybe there is one in my future. What degree of accuracy
could one expect using an end mill and then a diamond hone to smooth out the machines surfaces a bit?
I'm not expecting stellar accuracy at the moment, but rather just something functional in the shop at least
for now. I would use the 12 inch rotary table for setting the degrees... With a project like this one you may want to ask yourself if the angle plates will remain stable over time. The likely answer is that they will not. Most raw materials have "locked-in" stresses from the forming process that shaped them.

It usually will not be immediately apparent that the material is unstable but you may note that it has moved a year from now (and at an inconvenient time). If you already know all of this, then I apologize for recycling common information.

Angle plates are universally made from a casting because after a few thermal cycles and a little aging, the material is stable after machining.

I've got, or have had, all varieties and would agree with Jason that the adjustable work table is most likely to be satisfactory for a wide range of work. Often slowest to set up and, out of the box, tilt angle is frequently limited to 45° or less. If I had one like that in Jasons picture as my one and only and had regularly used angles I'd seriously consider making a new support arm with plain drilled holes suitably positioned to get the angle instantly. Unless fitted for a gauge block stack, sine bar style, getting an angle dead nuts can be a pain. Pretty darn close with a protractor is easy tho'.

Goto Hengfeng to know more.

Bearing in mind that my mill is a Bridgeport and work is frequently 12" to the ft scale, so my rigidity requirements are perhaps somewhat more exacting than those of folk with smaller machines my personal assessment is :-

1) Inexpensive type angle vice with two pivoting side plates. OK as a drilling vice but may well be iffy as a milling vice unless only using very light cuts. Time was that the machining, manufacture and alignment standards were poor. Fair few articles written on how to measure and correct errors. One of the import products that cemented the early reputation of "kit of parts supplied assembled to save printing instructions". Consensus seems to be that once reworked you had a very decent device for a very modest outlay. I wouldn't know, mine hit the scrap bin so hard that it nearly bounced out! I'd hope that, in line with much of the other imported equipment, quality standards have risen since so that they can be used out of the box. However the precision needed to be really good is deceptive and I suspect the market won't accept a commensurate price.

2) Inexpensive angle vice with part circle pivot runners each side and locking screw one side to hold the setting. Drilling only. Which was what mine was got for. Seriously chancing your arm if you expect it to stay in place when milling. Mine came from Northern Tools (remember them) at a very attractive price and is quite accurate with negligible twist between vice jaws and pivot axis. Better than I expected actually. Still comes out for appropriate jobs.

3) Proper pivoting vice with part circle recesses in base and matching runners in under the vice body with two bolts to hold the setting. Mine is a 6" Abwood on a rotating base. Very heavy, crane onto table, and rock solid. Needs a screw jack underneath to adjust it. Lord knows what it cost new. Can't see that quality at import prices but the design is inherently solid. Be advisable to check the alignment of the vice jaws and pivot axes to quantify any variation with movement. Unlikely to be anything that can't be worked around or fettled out.

4) Adjustable angle plate. Mine is a British made one of the style having a more or less semi-circular base with the plate running round it. For my money the most solid type of angle adjustable work support likely to be a accurate at a modest price. Often advisable to bolt a handle on to the plate to help with adjustment.

5) Adjustable work table. Best ratio of carrying capacity to weight. Not something to be overlooked when lifting onto the machine. Simple design means its easily made to decent accuracy at modest price. Not as inherently stiff as no 4 but up for all rational cuts. Major disadvantage is that its not a complete solution out of the box. Need other devices, like Jasons angle plate, to do the actual holding. But you should have such things anyway and, even if you need to get them, they will find plenty of other uses. Although vices are convenient they can be dreadfully limiting. Mine is a double one that tilts in both directions with fittings for gauge block stacks. When you need it there is no substitute but jobs really needing it are best avoided unless well paying.

Clive.

Posted by Muzzer on 26/04/ 21:28:27

You'd get absolutely slaughtered on shipping costs, even if it is a talentless / worthless lump of iron. This kind of heavy stuff needs to be bought more locally, even if it is actually made in China. ebay perhaps but not Banggood or Aliexpress.

Murray

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Indeed so!

At about £20.00 from the likes of Machine Mart **LINK** nothing to gain from trying direct import.

When judging the price performance ratio of this sort of very affordable equipment its a good idea to take a close look at how hard it would be to make a precise and accurate version on production line. In particular consider the number of accurate set-ups that will be needed and compare that with how easily a rough'n ready version can be made. With these vices its pretty obvious that you need too many accurate set-ups to produce a high quality one. Better off starting with a different design. But basic drilling machine standards and a "couple of quick licks" with milling cutters will suffice to produce a somewhat functional device. Any markedly superior design needs proper machining set-ups making it too costly for the bottom end of the market. So the manufacturer makes a better job of it and charges more.

My version of the Machine Mart one had every thread save the vice screw drunken, every pivot a bit out of line and excess slack in all joints. Any attempt to use it needed careful set-up specific to the device being worked on. Not something I was prepared to tolerate.

But when it comes to re-working about the only difficult bit is ensuring the fixed jaw is exactly parallel to the pivot and perpendicular to the face on which the moving jaw slides. Metal loaded filler may be needed behind the fixed jaw plate when sorting that. Not a bodge, more an unorthodox repair. Everything else can be sorted with simple machining set-ups given a bit of care, patience and thought.

Came in the "life is too short" category for me but for many folk a weekends worth of work to get performance effectively equal to something they could never realistically afford is an excellent bargain. Moi! I paid £80 for the big Abwood and nearly put my back out lifting it into the car!

Clive.

Edited By Clive Foster on 29/04/ 18:42:15

Edited By Clive Foster on 29/04/ 18:43:11

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